Welcome to 2019, a time where everyone is adapting to a healthier lifestyle and we're up to our necks in plastic (but that's another conversation). We're becoming much more aware of things we eat and drink thanks to documentaries like What the Health but where is the skincare version of these documentaries? What are these million dollar companies really convincing us to put on our skin? I dove into some common ingredients from every step in a regular skincare regimen and did some research on what each does and how they impact our skin.
Start with your cleanser, what is Stearic acid? This is a common ingredient used in over 3,200 cosmetic products so I'm sure you've seen it a few times, especially if you enjoy drugstore skincare. Typically found in cleansers, bar soap, shampoo, and body wash; this acid has many names, the most popular ones being Cetylacetic, Emersol 120, Emersol 132, Emersol 150, Formula 300, Glycon DP, and Century 1240. This amino acid helps water and oil mix, it is typically used an as additive to ensure the product remains intact and does not need to be shaken before being applied. This ingredient is safe to use on the skin and in the hair in moderation. If you are sensitive, I would advise patch testing a product with this ingredient somewhere on your skin before applying it to your face. Please be advised that this acid is derived from some animal fats and plant oils.
Step two should be toner, and if you're not toning after you cleanse, you better start! It is a great post-cleanse step to remove excess oil and dirt your cleanser may have left behind, it is also a great step to prepare the skin for serums or moisturizers. Now when you head to the store to buy your new toner, there are a couple things I'd like you to look for. A common ingredient used in most drugstore toners is Salicylic acid, an exfoliating amino acid that helps "sluff" off any dead skin left behind from a lack of exfoliation. I personally love this acid and recommend it to all of my clients, be mindful of how much you're using, though. Too much of this ingredient can leave the skin feeling tight and dry. If you're using a product with this ingredient and you're noticing more dryness than usual, opt for Willow Bark instead, it also exfoliates but it is much less harsh.
The second thing I'd like you all to remember is the use of alcohol in toners and how some brands will attempt to overuse alcohol which can strip the skin and cause drying. If you see alcohol within the first 6 ingredients of your product, put it back and run away! However, you will see alcohol has many names on packaging, none of these names should ever include Isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, or SD alcohol. however, other alcohols such as cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, or lanolin are safe to use in skincare as additives and are usually known as "fatty alcohols" which are a benefit to drier skin types.
Now, lets get into moisturizers and the best ways to pick them. When shopping for a new moisturizer there are 3 things you should look for:
1. Occlusives: These ingredients form a barrier on the skin that prevents the loss of water in the skin from wind and dry air. These ingredients include the following: dimethicone, petrolatum, paraffin, and lanolin.
2. Humectants: These ingredients attract water to the skin and cause the skin to swell, giving a smoother, wrinkle-free appearance. These ingredients include the following: Glycerin, aloe, sorbitol, sodium hyaluronate, urea, propylene glycol, alpha hydroxy acids, and sugar
3. Emollients: These ingredients fill the spaces between rough or peeling cells which create a smoother surface area. These ingredients include the following: mineral oil, lanolin, petrolatum.
Lastly, please be sure to include some kind of SPF into your routine. Your skin is not stronger than the sun. No matter how much melanin you may have in your skin, you are still susceptible to sun damage. In fact, black women are more likely to get skin cancer as the sun is attracted to darker things. As we transition into the warmer spring weather, your skin routine should follow and transition as well. An SPF of at least 15 will block 93% of UVB radiation while a 30 will protect your skin from 97% UVB rays.
This difference may seem small but over time, everything will cause long term change. Care for your skin and be patient with your process if you are struggling with issues with your complexion.
Like everything I post, I hope this helps each of you on your healthy skincare journey. Please be sure to share the knowledge with your friends and family. I am always available for product recommendations or suggestions.
With love and light,
Bruklin#skincare #skincareproducts #skincarehelp #skincarefacts #skincareblog #skincareblogger #skincaresins
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